A visiting cleric offered one of the most detailed contemporary descriptions of 18th-century Southampton more than 280 years ago.

Reverend Jeremiah Milles, Dean of Exeter and an avid antiquarian, arrived in the city in early September 1743.

He approached from Bursledon, journeying “four miles over pleasant commons to Southampton, having crossed the River Itchen by ferry".

Of Southampton, Milles said: “There was a small castle here formerly, built by Richard II on an artificial mount.

“But that has been destroyed long since, and instead of it was erected a windmill, which Mr Hollman, the late proprietor of it, converted into a banqueting room, and laid a good sum of money on adorning it with stucco and carving. It is now to be sold.”

Milles describes the Quay as “very convenient, though not large”.

He goes on: “Ships of very great burthen may come and unlade close to it, and the harbour is capable of receiving a prodigious number of vessels.

“There is a very pretty Custom House lately built. Near the Quay is a small platform with five or six useless iron guns and a very fine brass one, which was cast in King Henry VIII’s time.

“There is a very fine sugar house erected lately in this town.”

Milles says Southampton houses were “in general well built and look neat, and there is a great deal of good company in the town.

“There is a very handsome long street; the rest are but lanes. At the north gate, which is called the Bargate, they have painted two giants representing Bevis and Ascupart, who are supposed to have lived here formerly and concerning whom they have a thousand legends.”

This last reference concerned the painted wooden panels depicting the legendary Sir Bevis of Hamtun and his squire which graced the Bargate until the 19th century, when they were moved inside the building.

Milles also comments on developments which had followed the third Earl of Peterborough’s acquisition of land around Bevois Mount in 1723.

“About half a mile north of Southampton is a very pretty improvement of the late Lord Peterborough’s, who has converted a hill that was covered with bushes and brambles into a most beautiful little garden.

“It is situated on an eminence over the River Itchen, which is a prodigious addition to its beauty when the tide is in, which is not above two or three hours in the 24.

“At other times the slobby (muddy) channel appearing takes off greatly from the beauty of the prospect.”

Milles refers to a “very pleasant” bowling green and nearby small vineyard, though this was on “such a barren gravel that it does not prosper”.

He went on: “On the south side is an artificial mount said to have been raised by Bevis in order to hinder the Danes from passing the river there.

“This has been made regular, with winding walks leading to the top, on which is a pretty summer house, which commands a fine prospect of the town of Southampton and the channel quite to the Isle of Wight.”

But such was the difference in the view between high and low water that the Earl would only allow visitors into the garden at high tide.

Milles reports that the walks were so numerous and “so prettily diversified” that it “appears to be a very large garden, though in reality it is a very small spot”.

Matter of taste

He also implies a lack of taste in Lord Peterborough’s buildings.

“The Earl seems to have succeeded much better in his gardens than his buildings,” he says.

Built in “tolerable good taste”, in Milles’ opinion, was an open Corinthian temple which stood near the road.

He continues: “The House was only a farmhouse till the late Earl improved and added to it.

“His Lady, who is said to have rather a better taste than her husband had, takes great delight in this place and is continually making some new improvements."