MANY rural pubs are dying a sad and lingering death, throttled by the forces of 'progress.'

In the Winchester area alone in the last decade the number is growing: The Lunways, Shearers Arms, the Dolphin, the Bugle, the Star and the Andover Arms.

The reasons are numerous: spiralling property values, poor landlords living in the past, drink-driving laws, greater mobility, the list could go on.

But some country pubs are thriving, their bars heaving at lunchtime mid-week, car parks full, walls resounding to laughter and the chinking of glasses.

The Plough in Sparsholt near Winchester is one such. A former farmhouse, it was converted into a pub in 1909 and is set to celebrate its centenary as a massively successful business.

And for a 'pub' the food is very good if a trifle expensive (the bill came to about £39). My wife enjoyed a feta and spinach filo parcels with Thai pesto dressing whilst I had a Thai chicken curry, with just £1.10 change out of £20.

Pudding was a more traditional sticky toffee pudding with cream and apple and berry crumble with custard.

As an ardent pub-lover, for me the Plough veers just a tad too far as a restaurant. Anyone just drinking would quickly feel out of place. It's a sign of its roaring success as an eaterie.

There's a slightly surreal atmosphere in that the dcor (World War Two and golfing memorabilia, agricultural tools and cider jars) evoke a traditional place, yet the food and the prices tell you different.

But it's a small criticism when the benefits are so good. I'm sure most people in Sparsholt, even Campaign for Real Ale purists, would rather the Plough was still there, helping the heart of the village beat strongly.

The Plough, Sparsholt, 01962 776353.