John Billington writes...My greengrocer is a smashing chap.

Encouraged by the likes of me, he now buys in a few unusual items and rises above the perennial worry of being left with them on his hands. Of course, it behoves me to encourage him and I always buy some of his experiments.

Thus it was I recently cooked French salsify, otherwise known as the vegetable oyster. The very next day we visited Lainston House and there it was on the menu. My greengrocer beamed with pleasure when I told him - real praise by association.

For he knew that Lainston House is a byword for excellence in all things.

Set in stunning parkland the house has been subtly modernised and retains all of its character.

It's been two years since our last visit and my wife Tracie and I - this time accompanied by my daughter Kate - had high expectations of the pleasures to come.

It was a pleasure to find Francesco is still running the bar. His complete mastery of everything to do with drink is a joy in itself. Kevin, as discreet and charming as ever, answered our queries over dishes with complete confidence, for at Lainston staff always sample the food themselves.

Two years ago our meal was jolly good. It is difficult to identify quite how such a standard has been raised, but it has. The appetizer set the tone: a little red chicory tarte Tatin with roasted rocket and balsamic dressing. Every aspect was perfect.

Our starters continued the excellence. Tracie's grilled crottin de Chavignol came with red wine syrup and caramelised figs that concentrated the essence of the fruit wonderfully. Kate had plumped for a lobster. My own starter was a triumph of texture and flavour. A confit belly of pork was satisfyingly rich, while the Lancashire black pudding had the magical frothiness of the best offal. This was accompanied by an apple and sultana chutney and an intense pancetta crisp. A glass of very good Railroad Red cabernet Shiraz went well with the pork.

Tracie's seared lemon sole, a succulent piece of fish served with tomato confit was divine. The same wine matched the delicate saffron beurre blanc that came with my fabulous pan-fried turbot, vegetable salsa and cherry tomato Tatin. Kate went for another tasting, this time of Gressingham duck. There was a leg confit, slices of breast and a foie gras that I was lucky enough to get a taste of, with an expertly balanced star anise jus.

Comfortable rather than replete - portions of an ideal size - we sampled an excellent cheeseboard. And then there were the puddings. The blackberry and apple souffl was airily light and should be married to the Calvados ice cream, so well did they suit each other. Another made-in-heaven partnership was the Bourbon vanilla crme brulee with sesame snap and honey ice cream. I loved my tasting of Agen prunes - an aromatic clafoutis, intense fritters and a gorgeous ice cream.

Splendid!

To reserve a table contact 01962 863588.