Winchester'S bustling centre has its fair share of fine restaurants, but few offer a better view than the Wessex Hotel.

It's squat, angular post war exterior strikes an unhappy contrast with the solemn splendour of the next-door cathedral that dwarfs it.

But the elegant, classical dining room inside offers a grandstand view of the medieval masterpiece and a dramatic backdrop for a meal.

Priced at £15.95 for two courses or £19.95 for three, you feel free to cut loose and have what you like from a menu offering a traditional spread of dishes with a modern twist.

Torn between carrot and orange soup and the grand-sounding chicken livers marinated in raspberry coulis for starter, I resolved the dilemma by plumping for smoked salmon and prawn with Marie Rose sauce instead.

It arrived all bubble-gum pink and plump, with shreds of tender salmon trailing amongst fresh prawns and salad leaves with tasty sauce drizzled across the top. It's the classic starter and nicely executed it was too - prawn cocktail was never quite like this.

Having tasted such a traditional opener, a mixed grill to follow seemed the natural choice.

Complete with calf's liver, lamb, pork and sausages as well as sauted potatoes, tomatoes and mushrooms, it was never going to set the culinary world aflame. But each element was quality and it made a fine meal.

To set the seal on such traditional fare, it seemed only fitting to accept a chef's recommendation of crme brulee to finish.

Only, this was no run-of-the-mill, common-all-garden brulee. Delicately infused with orange, it simply soared on the palate once you cracked its crispy, seared brown sugar top to lift out the stodgy-thick heart of it. It reminded you why this creaky old classic is so well established in menus up and down the country.

The Wessex isn't really doing anything new, but with a view like that complemented by a range of nicely executed classics, it doesn't have to.

Wessex Hotel, Paternoster Row, Winchester. To book a table contact 0870 400 8126.