AMONG other things Chewton Glen has been voted Best Country House Hotel, not just in the UK but in the world.

Now that's some reputation to maintain.

Yet while with one hand the five star New Milton establishment fields a constant barrage of accolades for its food, health spa and accommodation, on the other it's constantly striving to surpass its own exacting standards.

Perhaps it's the smaller touches such as the line-up of wellies for guests to use on winter days; the open fire in the hallway; the huge vases of fresh flowers and the crates of rosy apples which have made all the difference.

"We might have won a list of awards, but we're not resting on our laurels," said Head Chef Luke Matthews.

The hotel seems to house a community of people - including 26 chefs and 35 catering staff - which never sleeps.

"By the time we've finished an evening shift, it's not long before our baker starts for the morning," said Luke.

Everything for the Michelin-starred restaurant is prepared on the premises from scratch; all the desserts, the sauces, the croissants, the bread...

After the departure of chef Pierre Chevillard, Luke was keen to introduce slightly lighter dishes to the menu, but without alienating the hotel's regular customers.

"We like to use fresh produce from local growers as much as possible," he said, "and make the most of seasonal goods.

Our dining experience at Chewton Glen started the moment our car passed through its gates and up the sweeping drive. A drink or two in the bar later, and we were taken through to the ambient conservatory-style Marryat restaurant.

From the table d'hote (priced £57.50 for three courses) I chose the roast Scottish scallops to start. These beauties had been trimmed and seared and were served on their own individual spoonful of rich wild mushroom risotto. Every mouthful was an absolute delight.

My companion's wafer thin San Daniele Ham was served with unusual (but moreish) chargrilled spiced black figs, regiano parmesan and herb salad. The whole combination of textures and tastes really made this starter worth lingering over.

We were both debating whether to go for the fillet of Scottish beef to follow - served with Madeira wine and truffle sauce. However, the lure of the Quantock duck breast was too much for my friend, which turned out to be a wise choice. The prime meat was cooked to her liking and served with rosti potato, Savoy cabbage and bacon. Its crowning glory, however, had to be the blood orange jus which was just exquisite.

When I heard that the roast label Anglais chicken was 'how a chicken used to taste' I just couldn't turn it down.

The breast was simply roasted (but just about as succulent as I'd ever had) and came with chateau potatoes, crisp market vegetables and a roasting jus which I'm pretty sure had a dash of wine in it.

On the subject, there's more than 500 wines to accompany your food, and a sommelier is on hand to help.

Desserts naturally followed in the same quality vein, and we shared a moist bread and butter pudding with crme Anglaise.

The waiting staff throughout our meal couldn't be faulted, and there seemed to be someone on hand for everything (even the cheese trolley had a dedicated guardian).

A meal here really does complement a special occasion, so you'd better search for an excuse to celebrate. If all else fails your budgie's birthday may be coming up soon...

Chewton Glen Tel 01425 275341. www chewtonglen.com