CRACK open the champagne - warm, hazy, almost summer-like days are here and we're only in March.

Well, perhaps champagne would be over-doing it, but to elebrate with a pint and some decent food there are few places I'd rather head for than the Jolly Sailor pub, hidden away in the leafy depths of Old Bursledon, next to the River Hamble. In fact, it's an attractive venue regardless of the weather. You can take your pick from roaring log fires in winter, to eating in the gardens and watching the yachts in summer.

Tonight we quickly picked a prime table overlooking the river (even by 7pm on a Tuesday, business was brisk) and then checked out the "specials" board. The specials here are always worth a look, although in the past I've stuck to two favourites on the normal menu, namely Moroccan lamb in fruity, spicy sauce, and bouillabaisse (fish stew).My wife chose chargrilled tuna steak, with king prawns and mussels (plus vegetables), while I tackled the trio of meats - lamb with rosemary, pork with orange and rump with garlic, herbs and basil (plus salad and fries). The tuna steak sounded good but was a touch dry and plain, and lacked a decent sauce. If anything the vegetables were more interesting, with raisins and red cabbage brightening up broccoli, carrots and spring onions.

The trio of meats were not over-generous in size, but made up for that with contrasting flavours and a tasty grilled finish.

Another quibble is that the plates, including the dish of vegetables, were stone cold when they arrived at the table, which was hardly ideal, especially when the dining room itself seemed a bit chilly after 8pm.But on to the oh-so-tempting puddings. Fruits of the Forest creme brulee was declared off the menu once we'd chosen it, but as a substitute sticky toffee pudding with cream played a blinder.

The sponge was warm, light and nutty, and brought the meal to a happy end. The Jolly Sailor has such a homely atmosphere that leaving is always difficult, and we were tempted to have a quick final drink before disappearing into the night.

On leaving, some of the steepest steps I've ever seen outside a pub lie in wait, so my advice is - don't try this while drunk.

Those who, like me, grew up in the 1970s might also take note that our meal resounded to the unmistakeable clunk of the classic children's game Connect 4 - being played by four adults, naturally. Our two meals, plus one pudding and two-and-a-half pints of beer, came to £32.70.

Reservations: 023 8040 5557.