PERHAPS it was just the view of the open sea from our window table, but there was an unmistakable holiday feel about dining at the Pebble Beach.

Maybe it was the soft yellow walls and fabrics which lent the whole interior a sunshine glow, or the live piano music to enjoy as we tucked into a fabulous Sunday lunch.

The food - prepared for all to see in an open kitchen - slanted fairly heavily towards fish, particularly on the specials board.

Our party of three chose - entirely from the main menu - the Breton-style fish soup, the grilled diver-caught scallops and the Thai style crab cakes to start.

The fish soup was excellent - full of flavour and served with crispy croutons just right for loading up with rouille and Gruyere cheese.

My crab cakes were large and meaty, but we had one criticism - the three small scallops (cooked with garlic and fresh herb butter) weren't nearly enough, especially for £7.50.

For the main course none of us could resist having the grilled fillet of wild sea bass.

It was served with slices of roasted aubergine and peppers, on salad leaves and with black and green pesto.

The sea bass was firm and fresh and combined wonderfully with the vegetables and the other accompaniments.

We also ordered side dishes of French fries, parmesan mash and mange tout which were cooked to perfection and delicious, although we soon realised we would've been better off with just two side orders.

Other main course options on the menu included freshly cooked pasta of the day with a choice of two sauces, shank of English lamb, and breast of corn-fed chicken filled with duck parfait.

We were far too full to sample the good range of desserts but managed a coffee and two mint teas - made just as they should be with simply hot water and mint leaves.

Our bill, including two glasses of wine and two large bottles of mineral water, came to £82.

The Pebble Beach's owner has turned the former Oysters restaurant into a real gem, which is certainly worth the fairly long drive to Barton-on-Sea.

I can envisage it becoming even more of a magnet once summer arrives, because of its large outdoor terrace overlooking the beach.

Reservations: 01425 627777.