IT HAS been said that to show something is important you must give it time, for time is the most precious thing we possess. You may think the taking of a proper English afternoon tea is not important, but it must be given a goodly amount of time and I believe it repays the investment handsomely.

As soon as we turned into the winding, tree-lined drive leading to Lainston House we felt we were in for a treat. The superb country house is set in its own estate of over sixty acres and boasts fine stands of woodland, with swathes of daffodils at this time of year.

We were warmly welcomed and escorted to the Cedar Room, where we admired the deep polished glow of the panelling. Having selected English breakfast, Earl Grey and Assam teas, our group of five nibbled on delightful home-made game chips as the preparations were made. My twelve year old popped out into the gardens for a little exploration and was mightily impressed with the croquet lawn and the tennis courts.

She was equally impressed with the spread laid out before us, especially as it was presented by ladies in proper frilly pinnies! We began, in classic style, with a teacake each, still warm after being split, toasted and buttered and then progressed to the sandwiches. For each of us there were two substantial, crustless rectangles of egg and mayonnaise, smoked salmon and tuna, all made with bread that enhanced the fillings.

To many, including me, an afternoon tea stands or falls on the quality of its scones. These were superb, with perfect consistency, baked to a turn and with just the right amount of fruit. I can honestly say I've never had better.

Some of us managed the excellent chocolate cream eclairs while others chose the dainty fruit patisseries, but I homed in on the fruit cake. It was full of flavour, had masses of fruit and was exactly as moist as it should have been. (Those of us who couldn't manage the cakes could certainly ask to take them home!)

My wife is an afternoon tea expert and I've had a few myself, and we were both agreed that for a tea beyond compare Lainston House is the place to be. I finished my fourth cup of Assam and took a stroll in the garden, feeling contented, relaxed and comfortable. Time very well spent.

Afternoon tea at Lainston House Hotel is priced £12.50 per person.

Reservations: 01962 863588.