YOU know when a national chain has finally made it when it reaches Alresford - population 5,000 and drowsing amid the watercress beds of the Rivers Itchen and Alre.

Pizza Express have taken the upmarket Hunters restaurant and created something unique. The old restaurant has become a comfortable leather-seated waiting area and an eating space has been created in a new and airy extension into the huge tree-lined back garden.

It is great for boisterous children letting off steam and a godsend for parents who have experienced restless children in cramped restaurants.

As for the food - well, part of the reason for its success is that you know it will never let you down.

Pizzas, lasagne, salads, desserts - all were excellent, although this time the garlic bread was lukewarm and a bit chewy.

Particularly good was the pollo

salad - chicken, goat's cheese, red peppers, tomato, olives, mixed

leaves and croutons served with doughballs and a dressing.

Our meal for four adults and one child came to around £67, including two bottles of house wine.

Some people sneer at pizza restaurants, but there is little doubt that Pizza Express is easily the best of its kind.

On our visit it was full of well-behaved kids and their happy parents, eating good food at reasonable prices. Pizza Express have cracked it.

Reservations: 01962 738758.